On the Contrary

Vine: It’s hot, damn hot.  We have had a string of hot stifling days, which is my cue to stay out of the vineyard.  Although the nights still cool down to the 60s, I would like to see a little more even weather (highs in the low 90s and dropping down into the 50s at night).  It slows the grapes down and allows the flavors to develop more fully.  Of course the other argument is that since we had such a cool June (I read an article that the tomatoes out here are a month behind), this weather is letting the grapes catch up.  My own uneducated view on this is that I would prefer more even weather patterns with a very long ripening season, but Mother Nature is not one for moderation.

I get asked a lot how my grapes are doing and the reality is I haven’t a clue.  It is true that we have good leaf development, lots of clusters that will require some fruit to be dropped in August, but as far as how the grapes are developing in terms of flavors, I just don’t know.  And I won’t know till about mid-September.  Verasion (turning red for the red grapes) has not occurred yet.  I did start a round of watering in mid July (about two weeks later than last year).  Based on that, I would say everything looks about two weeks late, but a lot can happen between now and October.

As far as work in the vineyard goes, I haven’t done much.  I did replace about 16 plants, mostly Grenache, but a few Viognier.  I put in a separate drip line for the new plants since they will require more frequent watering than the existing vines.  I also installed a separate watering system for my Viognier.  The Viognier are planted in the upper vineyard with the Syrah, but in an area that does not hold as much moisture and I am seeing if some additional water will facilitate more hardy growth.  Soon I will start some thinning of the leaf cover around the grapes.  This involves pulling off some of the heavy foliage around the grape clusters.  Most vineyards do some cover management.  The idea is to get a balance of leaf growth to grape bunch growth.  You want enough leaf growth to support growth of the grapes, but not too heavy so the plant is supporting leaf development over grapes.  I am always guessing.

Wine: Apparently Mourvedres are finally being discovered by the drinking masses.  The Food and Wine section of last Sundays Chronicle had an article on how California was discovering them.  Of the 800 or so acres in production here in California, one is mine.  For those unfamiliar with the wine, here is their description which I think is fairly accurate:

“These are typically hearty, well-structured wines, with deep red fruit flavors and a leathery edge. They bring the power and fruit of Zinfandel but add extra depth. And yet the flavors can be hard to nail down – brighter berry notes at times, darker hues at others. Trademark leathery, animal nuances can step forward, providing a signature; other times they lurk quietly. It is a difficult grape to comprehend, much less embrace.”

Mourvedre grows quite well up here with our cooler growing season.  It was interesting to note that the first two wines recommended were the 2007 David Girard Vineyard Estates Mourvedre, and the 2007 Donkey and Goat’s Prospector, both El Dorado County grown Mourvedres (vineyard manager Ron Mansfield).  Ron is the one who convinced me to plant my Mourvedres.  I have tasted both and they are quite good.  My claim to fame is that the Holly’s Hill 2007 Mourvedre Classique won a silver medal at the State Fair and has my Mourvedre in it.

For a food recommendation, my daughter was up here last weekend during the hot weather so for lunch I fixed a very simple Vietnamese chicken salad, but I substituted shrimp instead of chicken.  The salad uses Napa cabbage, cilantro, and green onions.  The dressing is peanut oil, fresh limejuice, fish sauce, and a little sugar.  The shrimp you peel and devein, coat in olive oil, salt, and pepper, and roast in the oven for about 4 minutes.  Then you just combine all the ingredients, sprinkle on some peanuts, and serve with a chilled Viognier.  It was light, refreshing, and just the thing for a hot summer day.  Carpe Diem.

Note the recipe (sans the shrimp) is from William-Sonoma’s Simple Suppers.